On the tiny Caribbean islands of Trinidad & Tobago, Carnival is the truest manifestation of the twin islands’ spirit, past and present. Refashioned from European colonizers’ masquerade balls and used by their slaves as a vehicle for resistance, the so-called "greatest show on Earth" (Feb 27 & 28 this year) has evolved into a celebration of freedom and a time to deep-six inhibitions. Here's how to do it right.
1. Keep it tried and traditional.
Ole Mas Carnival in Trinidad began with masquerades marking a farewell to the flesh (carne vale in Latin) before 40 days of Lent. Now, masqueraders dedicated to keeping tradition—and the requisite satire—alive call on historic Carnival characters like stilt-dancing Moko Jumbies and painted Blue Devils who breathe fire. These characters come out for J’Ouvert, Carnival’s early morning opening. At 4 a.m., revelers brave the dark and file into Port of Spain, the island’s capital, to dance to pumping soca music and slather one another in mud, paint, or cocoa, capturing the raw elements of the festival’s folklore.
2. Soak up the sounds of the steelpan.
Steelpan is almost synonymous with the Caribbean, and it’s also Trinidad Carnival’s original soundtrack. The tropical sounds were born on the island, and though the music has given way to the more spirited soca—which channels soul and funk—steelpan can still be heard throughout the festival. The best way to enjoy it is at a pan yard where players practice—it’s like you’re with the band. From there, follow the players to Panorama, the annual pre-Carnival steelband competition, to hear the best of the best. If you still haven’t gotten your fix, big steelbands like Trinidad All Stars hit the streets in costume for the two-day parade; anyone can sign up to join them.
3. Revel all day (and night).
Trinidad cherishes a good time above all else for Carnival, and with that comes nonstop parties in the run-up to the festival. Some of the most beloved bashes are DJ Private Ryan’s Soca Brainwash, and A.M. Beach, a champagne breakfast fête on the shores of Trinidad’s north coast, which goes from 4 a.m. until after sunrise. You’ll require food to refuel at any fête—order doubles, a street dish made with two pieces of flat fried dough and filled with spiced curry chickpeas. Ask for “slight” to try them with a kick of hot pepper sauce.
4. Experience 'bikini mas.'
On the two main days of Carnival, the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, it’s time for Pretty Mas. Masqueraders descend on Port of Spain to parade, the women’s faces and chests dusted with glitter and skin exposed, save for beaded bikinis and brightly colored feathers. Together with men in simpler costumes, they march to the intoxicating sounds of soca blaring from a big truck that travels with them, and they 'wine' (or gyrate their hips) and revel from dawn until dark.